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Climbing's most popular finger injury

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Wow… yet again I’ve made one move too many. This time I heard my middle finger pop on a route at the gym. It’s been swollen for weeks and I’m unable to move it. An MRI showed a full-thickness rupture of the A2 pulley tendon. Of course I consulted Dr. Volker Schoeffl, author of One Move Too Many. And just to learn more, I started Googling the injury. Almost every site references Volker’s research and diagnostic criteria. Both National Institute of Health papers rely heavily on his work. Since this injury is almost exclusive to rock climbers, I feel we’re very fortunate to have a doctor dedicated to the cause.

It’s also a reminder that the only climbing injury book written by an actual medical doctor (not a chiropractor or PT) is One Move Too Many: How to Understand the Injuries and Overuse Syndromes of Rock Climbing.

Margo Hayes sending Realization 5.15a … It’s like a new poster every month!

We’re so excited about the 2018 Women of Climbing Calendar. It seems like every year we get better and better photos from both old photographers and new talent. We’re super psyched to be working with Matty Hong who provided the most current of all photos—Margo Hayes’ ascent of Realization 5.15a. This is only the second [...]

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The Real Index

I was pretty astounded when Fred told me how well the Index guidebook had performed right out of the gates. But when he told me that people were going nuts for the special edition covers, it started to make sense. It also confirmed a suspicion that I had been laboring under for four years: that [...]

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TO ERR IS HUMAN

TO ERR IS HUMAN…I’ve been publishing guidebooks for 20 years, and have certainly published a few errors over that time. It recently came to my attention, however, that the new Rick Thompson’s Shelf Road Rock contained an error on the numbering of two dozen routes in Sand Gulch. To say I’m embarrassed is an understatement. [...]

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Sharp End Distributed Titles

One of the best aspects of working in the climbing industry (even if most of my job involves sitting in front of a computer) is working with climbers.In addition to working with writers, we have the opportunity to distribute a handful of self-published titles. Most notably, Sharp End has distributed Arno Ilgner’s Rock Warriors Way and [...]

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A chat with Best of the Red guidebook author Brendan Leader

The brand new Best of the Red is hot off the press and Sharp End is proud to be the US Distributor. The guide was published by Onsight Photography and Publishing (Monique Forestier and Simon Carter) of Australia. With a long history of quality guidebooks, we wanted to catch up with author Brendan Leader to discuss the latest guide. Sharp End: Tell us [...]

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Derek Wolfe and the new Colorado's Front Range Thirteeners book

Sharp End is just about to start shipping the new Colorado's Front Range Thirteeners book by Derek Wolfe. Derek has now penned three books for us ranging from a canyoneering guide to Moab, a hiking/scrambling/peak bagging guide to the Valley of Fire and now a guide to the Front Range's best Thirteeners. It's a diverse [...]

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The Real Shelf Shady: new crags at Shelf Road.

Wow. What a spring we're experiencing -- mild, if not a little wet. It's truly been perfect Shelf Road conditions, though certainly there are days where climbers want to avoid the sun. Shelf Road has so many aspects that chasing shade or sun isn't that difficult, but the great news for Shelf veterans is that many [...]

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Didn't learn in my forties what I thought I would

My visit to Dr. Hackett was great but inconclusive. I am scheduling an MRI to see what's going on in there. Based on my right shoulder, for which I had surgery in 2011, it could be any number of culprits from a SLAP tear with a biceps tendon injury to arthritis (which I deal with [...]

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​Climbing Injuries: Have you made One Move Too Many?

I’m off to the Steadman Clinic today, as I think I made one move too many. After having a surgery in 2011 on my right shoulder, I may have injured the left. Was I moving too many new books? The Shelf Road book, St. George Bouldering, and Favorite Hikes In and Around Zion all arrived [...]

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