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Blog - climbing injury

Climbing's most popular finger injury

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Wow… yet again I’ve made one move too many. This time I heard my middle finger pop on a route at the gym. It’s been swollen for weeks and I’m unable to move it. An MRI showed a full-thickness rupture of the A2 pulley tendon. Of course I consulted Dr. Volker Schoeffl, author of One Move Too Many. And just to learn more, I started Googling the injury. Almost every site references Volker’s research and diagnostic criteria. Both National Institute of Health papers rely heavily on his work. Since this injury is almost exclusive to rock climbers, I feel we’re very fortunate to have a doctor dedicated to the cause.

It’s also a reminder that the only climbing injury book written by an actual medical doctor (not a chiropractor or PT) is One Move Too Many: How to Understand the Injuries and Overuse Syndromes of Rock Climbing.

Didn't learn in my forties what I thought I would

My visit to Dr. Hackett was great but inconclusive. I am scheduling an MRI to see what's going on in there. Based on my right shoulder, for which I had surgery in 2011, it could be any number of culprits from a SLAP tear with a biceps tendon injury to arthritis (which I deal with [...]

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