How the Physiology of Climbing Came to Be

The Physiology of Climbing is the culmination of a year-long deep dive into the science behind climbing performance.

After years of “just climbing,” my progress had stalled. I followed training routines from books and online forums, but nothing seemed to work. Then, a friend shared a viral, unconventional hangboarding routine. It sparked a debate in my climbing group, and despite all my research, I couldn’t say for certain whether the routine was effective or not.

Determined to find answers, I traced the routine back to an academic paper on tendons. As someone with a background in math and software engineering, I assumed I could decipher it. I was wrong. The science was dense, complex, and completely opaque to me. That frustration pushed me to dig deeper.

One paper led to another, and before I knew it, I had compiled 300 pages of notes from hundreds of studies on muscles, tendons, nutrition, and exercise. This book is the refined, structured result of that research.

The Physiology of Climbing distills the science of training into an accessible, evidence-based guide. Whether you’re a beginner or a seasoned climber, this book will give you the knowledge to critically evaluate training methods and make informed decisions about your own progression. No more blindly following advice—understand the why behind every aspect of your training.